Are these tiny English islands paradise?

Cromwell's Castle, Tresco

We disembarked the tiny twin otter plane, there were only 12 of us on board- 11 humans and 1 dog. After quickly picking up our luggage, we walked out of the airport down a quiet country lane. Low grassy banks were on each side, dappled with wildflowers. Birdsong filled the air, the fresh green leaves were bursting out of the buds on the surrounding trees. Soon, a post van stopped next to us.

“Do you want a lift, whereabouts are you going?” Asked the postman. We declined as it was only a 10 minute walk, but this was a just a foretaste of the friendly attitude of the people here.

So had we stepped back in time to some idyllic vision of the England of 100 years ago where everyone knew their neighbours and would offer strangers a lift?

No, this is just an everyday occurrence on the Isles of Scilly where the pace of life is slower and still depends on the tides and the weather.

The tiny airport is on St. Mary’s, the largest of the islands with a population of less than 2000 people. Unsurprisingly, everyone knows everyone here so they can immediately spot a visitor, but far from being closed-minded, visitors are always welcomed by the open and friendly locals.

This archipelago of small rocky islands with dazzling white sand beaches, crystal-clear water and lush green countryside can be challenging to visit as most people who have been once tend to return at the same time every year and are given priority for accommodation. We visited in March when there is a higher chance of finding a vacant hotel room or BnB than in the summer peak season. Although many of the restaurants and activities are closed at this time of year, I feel we experienced the islands like a local would without many other tourists around.

The only way to travel between the islands is by small boat and times vary each day depending on the tides and seasons. Every day the times are posted on a noticeboard in the town centre and on a Facebook page. In bad weather they will be cancelled completely so the islands’ residents are completely used to planning their travel around the weather and tides.

Travelling between islands on one of the tiny ferries

On the first night we visited several bars and pubs in Hugh Town which is the main town on St. Marys. Each had its own unique character but the same unpretentious and welcoming atmosphere. The Mermaid Inn seemed to be the centre of the town’s life and locals told stories of evenings when it is packed, with dancing on the tables! It is also full of vintage flags and other historical items and stories of ‘lock-ins’ in times gone by when police from the mainland were sent to close the pub for violating license conditions. Jack’s Bar is a tiny subterranean drinking hole which is also popular with locals and visitors, with a wonderful friendly atmosphere. Customers can write their names or even cocktail recipes on the walls and ceiling so look out for my name if you go!

The first full day we took the tiny ferry to Tresco, which is the second largest island. Immediately on disembarking at the wooden pier, we were greeted by a pristine sparkling white sand beach and clear aquamarine waters which looked like it could have been the Mediterranean. The ferry driver will tell passengers the times to go back to Hugh Town in the afternoon, and it’s always worth listening carefully as often the ferry will depart from a different place to where you are dropped off due to the tides.

Tresco is famous for the Abbey Gardens, which I would highly recommend. The mild climate means that exotic plants grow here which you won’t find on the UK mainland, and even visiting in March is was amazing how many flowers were blooming, overshadowed by palms and other exotic trees. There is also a collection of figureheads from the many ships which have been wrecked on these shores.

We also walked around the northern end of the island, where there are fortifications and ruins from the civil war era as well as stunning views from the cliffs of the Atlantic ocean and across to the island of Bryher. No cars are allowed on Tresco, instead the locals walk cycle, or use golf buggies- even the island’s ‘ambulance’  was a golf buggy! The two settlements, Old Grimsby and New Grimsby are on opposites shores but only a 10 minute walk apart. For visitors looking for lunch, the Ruin Beach Café in Old Grimsby serves delicious food with gorgeous ocean views. Part of the seating is among old ruined walls, and even in March it created a warm microclimate so we could sit outside in short sleeves.

St. Martin's

On our second day we took the ferry to St. Martin’s, and again we disembarked on the pier overlooking a glistening white sand beach. St. Martin’s is smaller than Tresco and we walked the entire perimeter of the island in a day. This was one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever been on, scrambling along narrow paths along the clifftops, with a new pristine and deserted beach around each corner, rocky headlands and complete peace, as there are also no motor vehicles on this island. For a section of the walk, we saw a seal watching us from the sea and it would follow us along the coastline, surfacing every few minutes to have another look at us! As it was low tide we could also walk across to the tiny uninhabited White Island. The Seven Stones Inn was recommended by locals but unfortunately it was closed in March. However, there is a lovely bakery in Higher Town.

After these 2 wonderful days of sunshine, the weather took a turn for the worse so it was not possible to visit Bryher and St. Agnes, which are the other inhabited islands. However, there is still so much to explore on St. Mary’s.

On the northern coast of the island there are several neolithic burial chambers and earthworks, thought to be 6,000 years old. They were completely deserted when we visited which created a wonderful wild feeling about the place an it was easy to imagine the early settlers sitting around their fires looking out at views across the sea which must have hardly changed since.

Burial chambers on St. Mary's

The Star Castle Hotel is on a hill overlooking Hugh Town with stunning views over the sea and the other islands. It is well worth walking up the hill and around the garrison walls which surround this end of the island for the views alone, but the hotel also serves delicious food and cream teas.

When the time came for us to fly home, unfortunately it was too foggy for the plane to land at Land’s End. The friendly airport staff advised us to wait for the next flight but that was also cancelled so they transferred our tickets to the ferry instead. The islanders are very used to this happening and our Airbnb host even offered for us to stay an extra night if we needed to.

The ferry, currently called the Scillonian III, is notorious for seasickness due to the rough seas and its flat bottom. On boarding, passengers are greeted by paper bags for seasick passengers and a few minutes after leaving the sheltered harbour, I could see why. The locals had advised us to go down to the bottom of the boat and lie down to avoid the worst of the movement, but it was still the roughest boat ride I’ve ever been on and I was very glad to step back on to solid ground back at Penzance!

This photo gives an idea of what the ferry crossing was like!

However, I’m glad we experienced this as the ferry is a key part of the islands’ history.

Very few places enjoy such loyalty from visitors as this special archipelago and it is easy to understand why. Without needing to leave our own country, it feels like being in another world: a world more peaceful than the nearby mainland, where the tight-knit but welcoming community still plan their lives around the tides and seasons.

Follow along on Instagram for my latest adventures

View from Tresco across to Bryher